Wilmot Roots

• Naturally occurring hybrid of two native Ontario species, Silver Maple and Red Maple

• Grow up to approximately 52 ft. (16m) tall and 43 ft. (13m) wide
• Thrives in a variety of conditions
• Offers brilliant orange foliage in the fall
• Plant far from utility lines
• Sixty (60) two-gallon pots available

Eastern Redbud 

• Small ornamental tree/large shrub ideal for many home landscapes
• Grows to approximately 27 ft. (8m) tall
• Thrives in moist to dry sites with partial shade to full sun
• Adaptable to all but waterlogged soils
• Offers beautiful spring blossoms with colourful pink/purple flowers
• Flowering will be best if planted in full sun
• Twenty-five (25) two-gallon pots available

• Small tree/large shrub is ideal for many home landscapes
• Grows up to approximately 39 ft. (12m) tall
• Thrives in moist to dry sites with partial shade to full sun
• Adaptable to all but waterlogged soils
• Offers beautiful spring blossoms, followed by edible fruit in early summer, and orange autumn foliage
• Popular with birds
• Seventy-five (75) two-gallon pots available

Red Maple 

• Medium deciduous tree
• Grows up to approximately 50 ft. (15m) tall
• Thrives in moist, slightly acid conditions
• Tolerates shade but grows best in fall sun
• Provides shade in the summer and beautiful red leaves in autumn
• Plant away from utility lines
• Thirty (30) two gallon pots available 

• Large deciduous tree
• Grows up to approximately 115 ft. (35m) tall
• Thrives in moist, deep, rich soil
• Tolerates shade but grows better in full sun
• Provides shade in summer and beautiful yellow leaves in autumn
• Plant far from utility lines
• Fifty (50) two-gallon pots available

• Ontario’s official provincial tree is a large evergreen with long soft needles that will grow tall and straight
• Grows up to approximately 66 ft. (20m) to 115 ft. (35m) tall
• Tolerates a variety of soil but prefers sand or sandy loam
• Tolerates a variety of moisture levels, but needles may show some yellowing in alkaline soils
• Plant far from utility lines
• Fifty (50) two-gallon pots available

White Spruce 

• Large-sized evergreen
• Grows up to approximately 60 feet (18m) tall
• Thrives in a variety of soil conditions, considered to be draught tolerant
• Relatively low-maintenance tree
• Should be grown in full sunlight
• Fifty (50) two-gallon pots available 

Location, location, location

Choose a site that is right for your tree. 

• Trees must be planted on private land, not on Township boulevards or easements.
• Consider the size of the tree will be when it's fully grown and avoid planting it too close to buildings, walkways, or under utility wires.
• It will be much easier to dig if rocks or tree roots are avoided. 

Digging and planting a potted tree

Dig a hole as deep as the soil in the pot and two to three times the diameter of the pot. Do not add manure, compost, or fertilizer to the hole. The tree will need to adapt to the soil of its new home and send roots outward. “Enrich” the hole so the roots will stay there.

Remove the tree from the plastic pot by laying it on its side and tapping the sides and bottom to loosen it from the pot. If the tree has become rootbound with large roots circling in the container, cut these roots so that the root system will begin to spread out. Use a utility knife to make several 1-inch/2-centimetre-deep cuts along the sides of a “bound” root ball, and a couple of cuts on the bottom.

Proper planting depth is really important for a tree’s health. Identify the root flare on the tree. The root flare is the place where the topmost roots emerge from the tree. On many species, there will be a swelling or “collar” on the stem at this point. (Note that sometimes potted trees from nurseries have been filled with soil or mulch higher than the root flare. If so, remove the extra fill.)

Position the tree in the hole so the root flare is level with the ground outside the hole. Lay a stick or shovel handle across the hole to check this, and either dig a little deeper or put some soil in the bottom of the hole and tamp gently to achieve the right depth. Step back and ensure that the tree is standing straight up in the hole.

Fill the soil back into the hole, gently tamping it down to avoid air pockets. Break up any large clumps of soil to avoid air pockets. When you water the tree, the water will also help eliminate air pockets. Fill the soil level with the root flare, but no higher.

Consider placing a ring of soil (or overturned sod) around the perimeter of the hole to create a basin for capturing rainwater.

A good layer of mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, can help give tree tree a good start.

Mulch holds moisture in the soil and protects the young roots from temperature extremes. It also reduces competition from grass or weeds, and provides an important buffer from contact with mowers or trimmers that can easily damage the tender bark of young trees.

Place about three inches (eight centimetres) of mulch around the tree, leaving a space the width of a couple fingers around the tree stem. The shape of the mulch will be like a doughnut with a hole in the middle. Do not pile mulch up against the tree stem like a volcano. A volcano of mulch against the trunk provides fertile conditions for fungi, insects, or disease that can harm the tree.

Watering

Your tree needs extra water as it adjusts to its new home and expands its root system. Water the tree well on planting day. Depending on the amount of rain received, the tree may need to be watered weekly during the first summer, and every two weeks the second summer.

If the soil under the mulch is cool and moist there is no need to water. If it is dry, add water.

Enjoy your new tree and thank you for helping us grow a healthier environment in Wilmot Township!